Showing posts with label Fermentation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fermentation. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Lacto Fermented Turnips Two Ways – Shawarma and Japanese Style
8:19 AM | 
Posted by
commiskaze |
It actually wasen’t till after I moved back from Toronto
that I started researching this this heavenly fast food, and I could admittedly
never figure out what those weird purple pickled things were! Those purple
things were turnips all along! Who would have thought?
Well long story short, I’ve been craving it, thirsting for
it, it makes me drool… So like all things time to just make it myself with a
twist. Typically most of these pickles are done in a vinegar brine solution, I
wanted to try my hand at some lacto fermentation. We are almost a week in and
they are starting to taste great.
What you need:
2L worth of Jars, I used a 1500 ml, and a 500 ml jar.
10 Turnips (give or take)
1 Beet
1 piece of Kombu (seaweed used for making Dashi)
Garlic
Salt
Water
The Brine
The ratio I have been using is about 1.5 tablespoons of salt per 2 cups of water. Simply heat up the water and salt to a boil, once the salt has dissolved, let it cool. You will need about 4 cups worth of brine to do 2L worth of veg. It is also worth noting that the salt will draw extra moisture out from the vegetables so keep an eye on it, or it could overflow and you will have a mess on your hands.
The ratio I have been using is about 1.5 tablespoons of salt per 2 cups of water. Simply heat up the water and salt to a boil, once the salt has dissolved, let it cool. You will need about 4 cups worth of brine to do 2L worth of veg. It is also worth noting that the salt will draw extra moisture out from the vegetables so keep an eye on it, or it could overflow and you will have a mess on your hands.
Shawarma Style
These are pretty easy, and made purple with the addition of a beet. Cut your turnips into finger size batons, put into a jar. I like the addition of about 3 cloves of sliced garlic as well. Peel your beat and cut similar to the turnips. Fill with cooled brine till turnips are covered, and weigh down with something that will fit inside your jar (I used a smaller mason jar, but glasses, cups, ever a ziplock bag filled with water will work). Loosely cover with cheesecloth and let sit for about a week, after which put in fridge. They should last 3-6 months but will lose their crunch.
Japanese Style
Japanese culture loves pickles; they have stores dedicated to them. In fact, if anyone has a good book on Japanese pickles please send me the title (I am currently going through a Japanese cuisine learning phase). Traditionally these pickles are sliced very very thing, and a small piece of kombu sandwiched between each slice. That is what I would have done had I not left my mandolin at work. So I simply rough chopped them, added about a 4 inch square piece of kombu, filled with brine, and bobs your uncle. Follow as per instructions for the beets.
Japanese culture loves pickles; they have stores dedicated to them. In fact, if anyone has a good book on Japanese pickles please send me the title (I am currently going through a Japanese cuisine learning phase). Traditionally these pickles are sliced very very thing, and a small piece of kombu sandwiched between each slice. That is what I would have done had I not left my mandolin at work. So I simply rough chopped them, added about a 4 inch square piece of kombu, filled with brine, and bobs your uncle. Follow as per instructions for the beets.
Note
- These will not taste exactly like the vinegar pickles you may be accustomed to, if they are not to your liking simply add vinegar to taste. Serve them as a side dish, condiment, frankly I keep just eating them out of the jar and they aren’t even finished yet.
- These will not taste exactly like the vinegar pickles you may be accustomed to, if they are not to your liking simply add vinegar to taste. Serve them as a side dish, condiment, frankly I keep just eating them out of the jar and they aren’t even finished yet.
-
If you have some cabbage lying around, break off
a leaf, fold it in half, or quarter (depending on size) and shove it on top of
the vegetables. This will help keep them submerged and also add some healthy
bacteria to the mix (it naturally grows on cabbage leaves)
-
Press firmly, and gently shake your jars to get
rid of all air bubbles, as this could cause mold.
-
Last note, this all seems very counter intuitive
to what you are used to (leaving veg out for a week), but have a little faith,
you won’t get sick…. In fact… you’ll be better for it! Don't over think it, and if in doubt there are many resources on the internet addressing lacto fermentation.
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Sunday, April 29, 2012
Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing - Ruhlman
Charcuterie is the old art of curing pork, and making preserves. It has recently gone back into vogue, and not only are restaurants serving charcuterie platter -they are making it themselves. There are now entire restaurants devoted to this type of food, my favourite being The Black Hoof in Toronto.
This is not a new book by any means, but I have used it over and over again, and spurred me on in what can only be described as obsession. Needless to say with Ruhlman and Polcyn's upcoming release of Salumi this review is long over due.
The downfall of many charcuterie, and meat curing related books is that often it falls into the realm of food science. Our society as a whole is almost deemed unworthy to understand the principals behind processed food. There are many decent books done by the Marianskis, which will give you better comprehension of the science behind these things; however, it will scare off most first time dabblers. Realising this gap Ruhlman and Polcyn teamed together to create the first modern day, everyday man's book on everything porky, cured, smoked, salted, and stuffed.
One might ask themselves why we need the knowledge of food preservation? We have freezers, and refrigerators -it is no longer needed. Perhaps not, but its delicious. I for one am not willing to go my life without bacon.
The book is smartly divided into seven sections (not including the introduction): salt-cured, smoked, sausages, dry-cured, pates and terrines, confits, and accompaniments. Each section contains very informative instruction on techniques that are relevant, followed by some killer recipes, and usually additional related information. The salt-cured section begins with the history behind salted food, followed by the science behind it. Ruhlman follows this up with not only the economy and weight of buying whole hogs, but how these cuts differ in uses. Next up to bat is the dry cure recipe, and within a few seconds you know how to make your own bacon. After a veritable laundry list of culinary delights such as pancetta, guanciale, duck proscuitto, etc. We are inaugurated into the art of brining and everything from the perfectly brined chicken, to fermented sauerkraut, to lemon confit. At the end of the chapter you may not be getting a PhD in food chemistry, but you will have a great deal of understanding over the "what, where, why, how, and when," of everything salt cured.
The rest of the book follows suit.Whether you are an aspiring French chef trying to master duck confit, and pork rilletes, or an inspired barbeque pit master attempting to perfect a barbeque sauce you will get something out of this book. Cant find grandma's dill pickle recipe? This one is likely better. Definately a must have!
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Kvass - Tasting
It was time to reap the benefits of yet another crazy experiment -stale bread hooch. The kvass has undergone a slight carbonation, but not enough to be noticeable. The aroma was better then I had expected, it has the unmistakable lemon and mint flavours on the nose, which a touch of yeasty sourdough in the background. What I found most interesting, was the mouthfeel. It felt almost thinner then water. Of the three people that dared to try we all kind of got a different flavour out of it. My palate was comprimized as I had had a smoke and a beer before hand (you need to prepare for this somehow!) What I got out of it was a very weakly made lemonade flavour, with an acidity comparable to that of a sourdough. For me it was good, not great but had potential. I found everyone but me got the flavour of the bread prodominatly, but in different ways. One commented on the yeasty flavour, and the other that it tasted like dough. Needless to say no one was really in agreement with the flavours, and perhaps that is due to the foreign nature of the flavours. No one knew what to think. Did everyone like it? Absolutly not. Two thirds could finish it, and I believe the other person choked it down for postarity sake.
I will try this experiment again (its not like its expensive) but there are a few tweaks I will need to make in succession. This drink could definatly do with some sweetness, and I believe with more sugar there is a chance to bring more flavours out of the lemon and mint -provided it dosent increase the alcohol content, which was virtually undetectable. The flavour base of lemon and mint worked really well together, but I felt there wasent enough of it, next time I throw in some more rind. I am worried the addition of more lemon juice may make the enviroment to acidic for the yeast to florish. Finally, the yeast. Bread yeast has this unmistakable flavour, that I wouldnt describe as complementary. Next I will either make it traditionally from sourdough or purchase a pilsner, or wine yeast to do the dirty work. Was it a success? Yes. Is there work to do? Definatly.
I will try this experiment again (its not like its expensive) but there are a few tweaks I will need to make in succession. This drink could definatly do with some sweetness, and I believe with more sugar there is a chance to bring more flavours out of the lemon and mint -provided it dosent increase the alcohol content, which was virtually undetectable. The flavour base of lemon and mint worked really well together, but I felt there wasent enough of it, next time I throw in some more rind. I am worried the addition of more lemon juice may make the enviroment to acidic for the yeast to florish. Finally, the yeast. Bread yeast has this unmistakable flavour, that I wouldnt describe as complementary. Next I will either make it traditionally from sourdough or purchase a pilsner, or wine yeast to do the dirty work. Was it a success? Yes. Is there work to do? Definatly.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Nocino - The Beginning
Nocino is a walnut liquor that hails from Modena, Emilia Romanga. It is made by steeping unripe green walnuts in spirits, and usually used as a cold weather, or after dinner beverage. There are many recipes on the web for making this, but I chose to stick very close to tradition. I was scouring my copy off Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well
by Pellegrino Artusi, which is the first mass marketed cookbook in Italy published in 1891, and found a recipe for Nocino: 30 Walnuts
1.5L Spirits
750g Sugar
2g Cinnamon
10 Cloves
400ml Water
1 Lemon Peel
Being a cook, I simply cant afford to donate 1.5L of distilled alcohol to a science experiment. The alcohol they used was probably around 80-85%, so I figured with a 40% alcohol I could probably negate the water out of the recipe. If it ends up being to strong, I can always add but not take away (without distillation). Vodka is probably the most tasteless alcohol available in Ontario, we are not able to get Alcool or Everclear (Ontario liquor laws are retarded for lack of a better term). So I decided on a 750ml bottle of 40% vodka. The only other change, is in the form of addition. A very good Chef of mine always paired cinnamon and cloves with star anise, which both marries and adds flavours in a very luscious way. So I added star anise to the recipe as well.
Ingredients
15 Green Walnuts
750ml Vodka -40%
375g Sugar
1 Cinnamon stick
5 Cloves
1 Star Anise
1/2 Lemon rind (cut into strips)
Method
Halve the walnuts, on a plastic cutting board (this stuff will stain badly) and add to a 1.5L jar. Pour in the rest of your ingredients, and shake well. This stuff goes black quick! Leave in a warm place for 1.5 - 2 months. After this strain out all the solids through a coffee filter or cheesecloth, and bottle. Age for six months to a year or more as the flavours mellow.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Wild Fermentation - Sandor Katz
I have really been waiting for this book for years and never knew about it. I have many books on the subtle science of fermentation, filled with charts and numbers that can really turn you off of the whole thing. Sandor Katz
takes a very no nonsense approach to the art of fermented foods and drinks, everything from kosher pickles, to miso, to how to reuse old 
bread to make Kvass.
takes a very no nonsense approach to the art of fermented foods and drinks, everything from kosher pickles, to miso, to how to reuse old bread to make Kvass. 
When you go into the culinary arts, you learn quickly about food safety, proper holding temperatures, and how to keep things safe. This is almost totally counter intuitive to how I was taught, until you understand the science, and tradition behind it. He debunks many myths around botulism and food poisoning and teaches you very clearly how to do things safe, and the benefits gained from eating these foods. Common pasteurised foods keep you safe, however it is non partial to destroying good bacteria as well as bad bacteria; you must also remember that in any case you are eating dead bacteria which from what I hear isn't that great for you either. In the past ten years we have been making a leap forward in the right direction with foods like pro biotic yogurt, kefir, pro biotic pills to aid your digestion, or help people dealing with gastric diseases, or harmful drugs that kill your natural bacteria. Not only are these things very good for your digestive tract, but they are also incredibly easy (and cheap) to make yourself.
The benefits of miso, a Japanese fermented bean were observed by a Doctor in post Hiroshima to counter and heal severe radiation poisoning. Lets hope we just need it because its delicious.
I found for me, there was a timidness about approaching these kinds of things, in the back of my head all that I could think was I was going to end up with food poisoning, no matter how much I understood the processes going on. I started off small, cultivating a sourdough starter; then I moved on to sauerkraut. Still alive, there must be something to this. I was flabbergasted to realize I could make my own yogurt with nothing more then probiotic yogurt and milk -also a much cheaper way. I was hooked. Now I have at least one little foodie science experiment on the go, and its all thanks to the guidance, and assurances of Sandor Katz. I have read, reread, and used many of the recipes in this book. None of them disappoint, well the Kvass was different...maybe not AS enjoyable as proper beer. Take baby steps in this direction, you wont be disappointed.
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Kvass - The First Day
 |
| After only a few hours you can see the fermentation taking place. |
, my eyes lit up, and it was so simple I had to try it. Ive adapted my recipe slightly due to the availability of ingredients. Traditionally hearty rye bread was used, but any will do. I will be sure to do a follow up of this post in a weeks time to let everyone know how it turned out.Ingredients
½ lb Stale bread (cubed)
7 Mint leaves
½ Lemon
3 tsp Sugar
Pinch of Salt
1 tbsp Active Dry Yeast (or about half a packet)
Raisins
Method
Grab a 1.5L mason jar, and fill it with the stale bread, mint, and lemon. Fill with boiling water, cover and let steep for 8-12 hours. After your waiting period is up, strain the mixture using a fine mesh strainer, or cheesecloth. Clean the jar, and add the mixture back in. I ended up with one litre of liquid exactly. To this add your sugar, salt, and yeast. Cover and let ferment for 2-3 days. Bottle ¾ full using whatever you have available, but be warned the fermentation is still taking place and pressure will build up. Add a few raisins to each bottle before sealing. Im not sure what the purpose of the raisins are. I can speculate that they are added for extra yeast, or sugar for the yeast to feed on, but what I have learned is that when the raisins float the Kvass is ready to drink.
Monday, August 8, 2011
Sauerkraut
I absolutely love have little living science experiments going on in my kitchen, its gives me that feeling of boyhood wonder crossed with being a mad scientist. Quite some time ago I read Wild Fermentation by Sandor Katz
, and it absolutely compelled me to start making this stuff! Its so simple, so cheap, and the wild lactic fermentation gives it a tang that you cannot get from the supermarket variety. There aren’t any really hard and fast rules to making successful sauerkraut other then to keep the oxygen out of the pictures. Without oxygen molds cannot survive. Think of wild fermentation as a microbial battleground where you set up conditions that will allow your team to win. This is accomplished firstly by salt, the good guys can thrive in it, and the baddies cannot. Secondly, acidity as the lactic fermentation takes place it raises the acidity level in the brine once again giving the good guys a fighting chance. Finally, oxygen the bad guys need it, the good guys don’t. I know the first thing anyone is going to say is what about botulism? Well you have better luck of winning the lottery. Botulism usually occurs in canned and sterilized products because it is one arch villain that can survive in the murky depths of an anaerobic environment, and when things are sterilized it is a tough little bastard that can withstand the heat and pressure of canning. The biggest problem is when it does happen it has no one else to stop it from proliferating, because all the good and helpful bacteria were destroyed in the canning process. What this means is that there are two ways of preserving food either you create an environment where only good bacteria can survive: real pickles, sauerkraut, salami and other cured meats, yogurt. Or, you create an environment where nothing can survive: pressure canning, beef jerky, etc. I used to be terrified of this stuff before I started to understand it, its normal. It is also useful to note that most cases of botulism poisoning is from improperly canned tomatoes. This has more to do with improper canning techniques, and lack of acidity.
, and it absolutely compelled me to start making this stuff! Its so simple, so cheap, and the wild lactic fermentation gives it a tang that you cannot get from the supermarket variety. There aren’t any really hard and fast rules to making successful sauerkraut other then to keep the oxygen out of the pictures. Without oxygen molds cannot survive. Think of wild fermentation as a microbial battleground where you set up conditions that will allow your team to win. This is accomplished firstly by salt, the good guys can thrive in it, and the baddies cannot. Secondly, acidity as the lactic fermentation takes place it raises the acidity level in the brine once again giving the good guys a fighting chance. Finally, oxygen the bad guys need it, the good guys don’t. I know the first thing anyone is going to say is what about botulism? Well you have better luck of winning the lottery. Botulism usually occurs in canned and sterilized products because it is one arch villain that can survive in the murky depths of an anaerobic environment, and when things are sterilized it is a tough little bastard that can withstand the heat and pressure of canning. The biggest problem is when it does happen it has no one else to stop it from proliferating, because all the good and helpful bacteria were destroyed in the canning process. What this means is that there are two ways of preserving food either you create an environment where only good bacteria can survive: real pickles, sauerkraut, salami and other cured meats, yogurt. Or, you create an environment where nothing can survive: pressure canning, beef jerky, etc. I used to be terrified of this stuff before I started to understand it, its normal. It is also useful to note that most cases of botulism poisoning is from improperly canned tomatoes. This has more to do with improper canning techniques, and lack of acidity. The basic recipe for sauerkraut is a ratio of three tablespoons to about five pounds of cabbage (yes that is it). However, so the sake of creativity and flavour here is my recipe.
Apple Caraway Sauerkraut
Ingredients
1 head of Cabbage (about 3 pounds) shredded
3 tbsp Salt (feel free to use more or a little less depending on taste)
2 Apples (cored and slices)
1 tbsp Caraway seeds
Method
Find yourself a crock if your lucky enough to have one, or a wide mouthed mason jar (youll probably need one in the 1.5 range to fit this recipe). Pack the cabbage, apples, and seeds as tightly as possible sprinkling with the salt as you go. Thats it, well almost. You will need something to keep the cabbage weighted down below the liquid. Some fancy crocks have weighted stones that perfectly fit the crock. A clean plate and a can will achieve the same goal. I had to be a little more creative than that. Over the next week you will see the liquid start to come out of the cabbage and in essence it makes its own brine. What is important is to pack the cabbage down to remove any tiny little air bubbles. Cover with cheesecloth to keep the flies out. In about a week or two you will start to be able to taste the fermentation, and the longer you let it ferment the tangier it will get. When your happy with the amount of acidity you can keep it in the fridge to slow down the fermentation process. Eventually the flavour will become less pleasant and it is time to make a new batch. You can also can and sterilize it for permanent storage, but this will also kill all the beneficial bacteria that are good for you.
*Note: sometimes you will notice mold beginning to grow on the surface of the liquid, this is perfectly normal and will not harm your sauerkraut underneath the brine, just skim it off, and clean whatever your using to weight it down. If you notice mold growing in your sauerkraut (almost certainly because of an air pocket) it is time to pitch it.
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